Three-phase lipstick composition



THREE PHASE LRPSTICK COMlvJSITlQN No Drawing. Application July 15, 1954Serial No. 443,716

Claims. ct. 1457-85 This invention relates to improvements in lipstickcompositions in which the color is both a stain of and a pigmenulikematerial bonded to the lips, rather than only a coated stain of the lipsor a colored coating on the lips- Important present consumerrequirements for a lipstick are that it be non-injurious, tasteless andodorless, that it be easy to apply, that it color the lips uniformly tothe desired intensity in a given shade, that it provide a smoothappearance and give a sensation of smoothness to the lips, that itprovide some protection against weather conditions causing chapped lipsbut without appearing heavy or thick or giving a caked appearance to thelips, that it be hard enough, to use in stick form in .the usualcontainers without cracking or crumbling, and that it produce a goodluster or sheen without giving a greasy appearance or sensation totouch. Other important requirements are that there be a minimumtransferfrom the lips, of color of any kind to other objects such as textiles,glassware, etc. and to other persons, and that the color be sufficientlypermanent to minimize the need for re-applying lipstick or to minimizethe amount of lipstick required to repair damage to the coating bynormal usage.

It is also desired that the lipstick itself have the same color shadeand intensity throughout the Whole range of color used, as is producedon the lips, and regardless of the thickness of the coating applied, andthat the color be uniform throughout the entire stick.

Two types of lipsticks are now in general use; namely, the conventionaltype and the so-called super stain type. The conventional type ischaracterized by its base of only waxes, oils and fats in which acoloring material is dispersed, thus providing .a composition which is asingle phase product. The so-called super-stain lipstick differs fromthe conventional type by addition to the wax-oilfats base of a dyesolvent which does not belong to the class of oils, fats or waxes, andwhich is usually a glycol or glycol derivative. Hence the super-stainlipstick might be considered a two phase product.

Both types of lipsticlts stain the lips and both types contain pigmentsuniformly and permanently dispersed throughout the base. .However, thestaining of the lip tissues by the conventional lipstick is relativelyweak and removalof even a small portion of the pigmented lipstick basemass undesirably affects the appearance of the made-up lips. In theso-called super-stain lipstick, staining of the lips is sufficientlyintense so that much of the pigmented base may be blotted off whileretaining good coloration of the lips, but the lips do not then have anycoating Whatever.

However, each of the two types of lipstick has serious drawbacks. Theconventional type leaves very undesirable stains on glasses, towels,cigarettes, etc., whereas, the so-called super-stain type has anunnatural trans parent lookafter blotting, and the very desirable waxfilm is lost. If the super-stain type is used without blotting itactually transfers more stain to other objects than the conventionallipstick.

.tes atent."

anjintense stain and retaining other color on the lips.

There is however no color transfer during useyto objects "or personstouched by the made-up lips providing the presentlipstickis applied asdirected. This most desirablecffect is produced by the selection ofcolor and a base which makes both the stain and pigment colors movethrough the base towards the lips where the pigments a-iebonded to thelip surface, thus leaving a film which has the desired appearance andcoating qualities but'does not transfer a colored film to objects orpersons touchedthcreby. The present lipstick comprises a base, a dyesolvent or solvents and a carrier. Each of the three components orsub-combinations act as a separate phase even though the solvent and thecarrier may be dispersed in the base. The present lipstick isaccordingly a three phase product. p

7 'It is an object of the present invention to provide a lipstick inwhich a major portion of the color (which term herein includes bothstain and pigment) is bonded directly'on or I to the skin of the lipsand is covered by a coating which may, but is not required, to retainsome of the color as a pigment or with pigment-like characteristics.

Y Another object of the invention is to provide a lipstick composition.in which the desired differences in color shades, color intensity andcolor depth may be obtained overthe entire range of color desired byusers and in which each lipstick itself will have the same colorthroughout its entire mass, as is obtained in the lip stainng andcoating produced by a given lipstick.

Another object of the invention is to provide a permanent type lipstickcomposition in which the materials are all non-injurious or safe,without taste or odor and without undesirable physiological etfects suchas drying 1 the lips.

other liquid phases in the final product.

Anotherv object ofthe invention is to provide a lipstick o fmthepermanent type which is applicable in only slightly different manner andin substantially the same time as iipsjticks now in use and which willhave the same general characteristics so far as the user is concerned,as are now found in both the conventional lipstick and the super-staintype of lipstick, while providing additional properties which arenotpresent in the prior lipsticks.

A further object of the invention is to provide a lipcompositionincluding a dye or dyes of kinds and in forms both to stain the liptissues, and to migrate to the lips for functioning as a pigment and inwhich some color may be kept dispersed throughout the lip coating formodifying the staining of and the pigment deposited on the lips. i

Generally, the present invention involves the use of a lipstick body orbase sub-combination or sub-composition of fatty and waxy materials towhich may be added materials having either or both blending andemollient qualities and materials improving the coating-formingcharacteristics of the lipstick, as the solid phase of the lipstick.Other compounds are used to prevent undesirable physiological. effectsor avoid skin irritations in the use of the lipstick by some persons.The color is produced by acolor or coloring sub-combination orsubcotnpositiori which is, however, a number of liquid phases completelydistinct and separate from the solid base subcomposition. Oneof thecoloring phases is continuous while the other phase is discontinuous butreadily dispersed throughout the solid base phase and the: continuousliquid phase.

ilncidental and as flavoring or perfume and such ingredients may formSuch ingreoptionalingredients may be used, such a toward the lips.

dients are in relatively small quantifies and do not alter thecontinuous and the discontinous character of the two major liquid phasesof the color sub-combination.

D & C and F D & C approved or certified colors or dyes are used, whichare soluble in water, glycerols and glycols. The dyes are not soluble inbut can be dispersed in the solid base or body phase and in one of theliquid phases of the lipstick without change in or decomposition of thedyes. The dyes are at least partially dissolved in a hydrophilicmaterial (strongly attracted to moisture of the lip tissues), andpreferably one of the edible glycerols or glycols or their derivativesto form one major liquid phase in'the lipstick. Insofar as the dye ordyes are not dissolved in the glycerol or glycol solvent phase forstaining the lips, another liquid phase acts as a carrier or vehicle fordispersing the undissolved portion of the dye throughout the lipstickbody and provides a separate liquid phase, the carrier allowing thedye-pigment to migrate toward the lips. The mixture of dyes and thesolvent phase and the carrier phase forms the essential portions of thecolor sub-combination and the several materials are proportioned to giveany desired combined staining and pigmenting effect whereby a coatingmay be substantially translucent or may be opaque dependent on theproportion of dye which was not dissolved and which acts as a pigment,and also dependent on the amount of the pigment-dye carrier used.

The dye-solvent phase is water miscible but immiscible in ornon-compatible with the waxes and other solid phase components and inthe dye-pigment carrier. The carrier phase is not water-miscible and isalso immiscible in the solids phase components. However, the carrier hassufiicient atfinity for skin to cause movement of the color The dyesolvent or solvents and dyepigment carrier or carriers are sufiicientlythin or nonviscous to transfer the dye easily and to penetrate throughthe coating formed by the waxy base. Hence, some of the solvent and someof the carrier may be blotted off the applied coating by the use ofabsorbents such as paper tissues. Being water-soluble or Water-miscible,any solvent remaining or appearing on the coating after blotting, may beremoved by the tongue without damaging the coating. Although the carrieris not water-miscible, it is noninjurious and any residues thereof afterblotting of the applied coating may also be licked oif.

Incidental components or ingredients, such as flavorin'g, perfume or thelike, are not necessary to or essential parts of the present compositionand, when used, must be compatible with both the base sub-combinationand the color sub-combination.

In the final lipstick, the waxes are in generally crystalline form withthe other base solids dispersed throughout the base mass. The dyesolution is to be uniformly distributed throughout the base or body massas a discontinuous liquid phase. The undissolved dye is dispersedthroughout its carrier or vehicle in small particles and functions as apigment. The pigment-carrier forms a continuous phase throughout thelipstick and the dye solution is distributed throughout such continuousphase as separate and randomly spaced globules (a discontinuous phase).

Other liquid ingredients are either part of the continuouscarrier-pigment phase or the discontinuous dyesolution phase dependingon miscibility of such ingredients in either of such two liquid phases,which is the reason such ingredients must be compatible with both thebase and color sub-combination.

The action of the present lipstick is believed to be a movement of bothliquid phases of the color sub-combination toward the lips from allportionsof the applied lipstick coating. Such movement of the dyesolution and the dye-pigment carrier brings both the dissolved dye andthe dispersed pigment-dye (undissolved dye particles) through the solidphase toward the lips. The dye solution comes in contact with the lipswhere the dye and a portion of the water-miscible solvent is absorbed tostain the skin. The undissolved dye-pigments is deposited on the lips orin the coating formed by the base and near the lips. Unabsorbed solventand substantially all of the carrier then move outwardly through thecoating of base solids and may be removed from the outer surface of suchcoating.

In its presently preferred form, the lipstick base or bodysub-composition or solid phase essentially consists of Waxes: Parts byweight Carnauba (melting temp. 83-91" C.) 3-6 Ozokerite (melting temp.7680 C.) 6-12 Paraffin (melting temp. 55 C.) 15-30 Emollient (andblender): lanolin and lanolin absorption base.. 10

Vitamin F 14 Various other waxes may be used, such as beeswax (M. P.62-70 C.), candelilla (M. P. 65-69 C.), ceresin (ozokerite-paraflinmixture, M. P. 54-77 C.), spermaceti (M. P. 41-49 C.), or the like whichare physiologically inert and have suitable melting points when combinedwith the other materials of the present formulation.

The waxes in the base sub-combination are compounded for shaping theentire composition in stick form of sulficient hardness for manufactureand handling but easy to apply to the lips. Higher alcohols (which aresolids) may also be used to secure greater uniformity of colorthroughout the entire lipstick for best appearance of an unusedlipstick. Other materials may be used to provide some plasticizingeffect in avoiding cracking of an applied coating. The lanolin orlanolin derivatives are emollients and also aid in making the lipstickmore homogeneous and in the spreading of a coating of uniform thickness.They also have the properties of reducing or preventing sweating andbloom of the finished product and-of increasing sheen. A lubricant suchas petroleum jelly or one of the other well known materials may be usedto enhance the luster or sheen of the coating.

The present vitamin F is obtained from the germ of various cereal grainsand is processed to be hydrophilic which causes the vitamin to move intocontact with and to set on the lips with the dye rather than being onlydispersed throughout the dye-solution or the pigmentcarrier and beingfinally blotted off the coating. The vitamin F eliminates any tendenciesfor some dye or combinations of dyes to dry and to irritate the lips ofsome persons. 7

It will be understood that the above waxy base or body sub-compositionis water-repellent and that it has no qualities by which a water-solubledye can be transferred to the lips.

The incidental ingredients for the lipstick may be:

Parts by weight Perfume 0.52%. Flavor (vanilliu) To flavor. Theperfumeand flavor are preferably mixed with the base or body to avoid lossesthereof, but may be mixed with the color sub-composition if so chosen asto be without efiect on the color sub-composition. I

A preferred composition of the lipstick coloring subcombination orsub-composition consists essentially of:

Parts by weight Dye (D & C and F D & C certified, water soluble orsoluble in aqueous alkaline solution):

FD&Cred, No.3 6 D & C red, No. 27 3 D J C red, No. 21 3 D & C orange,No. 5 3 Solvent for the dye: proplylene glycol 15 Blender (for solid andliquid phases) and Pigment carrier: oleyl alcohol (solidification temp.

Ii .J The above dyes and other dye'ssuch as:

FD&Cred,No.1,2and4 F D & C orange, No.1 i F D & C yellow, No. 1, 2,5and, 6 F D & C green, No. 1, 2 and 3 PD & C blue, No. 1 and 2 may beused to obtain exactly the desired shade for use by diiferent personsunder different light conditions. The various dyes are blended to thedesired shade as is well known by persons in the cosmetic industry. Thequantity of the several dyes may be varied as desired but the totalamount of the dyes is determined by the color intensity desired.

Other glycerols and glycols or combination thereof which are liquid at35 C. or below, may be used as the dye solvent in the amount of 15 to 25parts by Weight. it is, however, necessary to the present invention thatthe dye solvent or solvents be immiscible with but dispersable in thelipstick base or body and that they be hydrophilic. Other pigmentcarriers may be used such as the esters of polyhydric alcohols, e. g.propylene glycol monolaurate. The various carrier equivalents may not besolvent for or reactive with the dye, or miscible with the lipstick bodyphase or the dye solvent phase. The carrier must have some affinity forhuman skin, and both the dye-solvent and the pigment-carrier arepreferably nonvolatile.

From the parts by weight of the ingredients set forth previously theproportional ranges of the composition in weight percent is a follows:

Percent Wax 14.1-26.1 Dye solvent 55.1-16.7 Dye 7.2-9.4 Carrier70.6-47.8

When using lanolin and vitamin F the proportional ranges of theingredients in the lipstick composition are as follows in weightpercent:

In manufacture, certain precautions must be observed to obtain asuccessful product. The dye (or dye combination previously mixed to givethe desired color shade and intensity) is mixed with and dissolved inthe glycerol or glycol solvent and with or without agitation. Theproportions of the dye or dyes and the solvent are such as to retain aportion of the dye in undissolved but very finely divided form, and thedye-solution and suspension is then uniformly distributed or dispersedin the carrier. The quantity of undissolved dye depends on whether theapplied coating is to be only translucent or substantially opaque. Theundissolved dyes act as pigments and, unless uniformly dispersed in thecombined liquid phases, would be difficult to disperse in the solid basephase sufficiently for uniform coloring of the finished lipstick and ofthe applied coating.

The base Waxes, with such optional materials as blender, emollient,vitamin F and any other solid phase incidental base ingredients aremelted and stirred, milled or otherwise treated to secure uniformity ofmixture. The base composition is then cooled to a temperature notharmful to the dyes, the cooling being preferably done under suchconditions as to prevent or minimize segregation of base ingredients.

The base and coloring sub-compositions are then mixed and cooledfurther, in such manner as to obtain a fairly uniform composition. Thecooled mass is then ground in a roller mill or other suitable cosmeticmill to uni- 6 i formity of color and texture so that the colorsub-cornposition is in fact uniformly dispersedin the base sub.-composition as far as possible by practical compounding conditions. Whenas completely uniform in all respects as seems practical, the mass has amelting point sufficiently high to withstand normal ambient temperaturesand can be reheated without segregation. or separation of theingredients and to a sufficiently liquid condition for pouring intomolds.

No particular precautions, such as quickly chilling of the molds, areneeded to avoid crystallization, segregation or separation of some ofthe materials or to avoid solidification of the mass in a granular form.Further, the sticks are readily released from the molds and have asmooth finish so that fire-polishing of the sticks is unnecessary. i p

A number of different certified consumer tests have been made by theresearch laboratory associated with the assignee of the presentapplicant, for comparative evaluation of a widely used lipstick of thesuper-stain type and a composition following the present formulation atleast as to the base waxes and the color sub-composition, some of theoptional materials being omitted in some samples. The test instructionsimposed more severe conditions than the ordinary and usual conditions oflipstick use.

In applying the present lipstick, the best results are obtained if thelips are moistened before the lipstick is applied. Two or three minutesshould elapse after applying the lipstick, whereupon the major portionof the pigment carrier and some of the dye-solvent will have risenthrough the waxy layer and can be blotted off. When the liquids havebeen blotted off, it is found that there is little or no color on theblotting tissue and that the apparent coloring of the coating is intenseand uniforms For the preferred composition, the quantity of dye is sochosen that only a small quantity thereof is insoluble, wherefore thecoating is substantially translucent and substantially all of thecoloring is immediately on the lips. But larger quantitiesof dye may beused to obtain a colored and opaque coating, thus Combining. the coatedappearance produced by a lipstick using only pigments and the effect ofa lipstick giving only direct staining of the lips to avoid markeddilference in appearance if the coating becomes patchy or is removed insome areas.

A requirement of the dye or dye-.mixture used, is that the undissolveddye portion be in the form of independent and individual particles whichdo not adhere to one another or conglomerate into a pasty mass. Suchpaste would have undesirable tar-like characteristics preventing uniformcoloring of the stick itself and of the applied coating and wouldprevent use of the stick itself as a guide in selection of the colordesired by the user. The dyes should not be retained to any materialextent in the base, if transfer or loss of the 0101' is to be avoidedupon contact of the lips with other objects. The dyes should besubstantially insoluble in the base and must be attracted to and mustbond to the lips. Hence, water-soluble dyes are used of which theparticles will not adhere to one another, will not dissolve in the baseto any considerable extent and which will migrate toward and bond to thelips.

The present lipsticks are not affected by air and need not be kepttightly enclosed as is the case with certain Iipsticks of Frenchmanufacture. Usage of the present composition over the normal life of alipstick, shows that no special precautions are necessary in use, whichis contrary to directions for using the French lipsticks having alip-staining action.

I claim:

1. A lipstick composition, consisting essentially of about 14.1% to26.1% by weight of a wax selected from the group consisting of carnauba,ozokerite, paraffin, candelilla, ceresin, spermaceti, and mixturesthereof,

about 7.2% to 9.4% of a dye to provide the composition with color andpigment, about 8.1% to 16.7% of a hydrophilic dye solvent characterizedby being a liquid below 35 C; and selected from the group consisting ofglycerols and glycols, said dye solvent being present in a quantity lessthan required for solution of said dye, and 47.8% to 70.6% by weight ofa thin liquid carrier immiscible with both said wax and said dye solventand selected from the group consisting of oleyl alcohol and propyleneglycol monolaurate and characterized by having sufficient fluidity tofacilitate application of the lipstick to the skin and to bleed out ofthe wax base phase after application to the skin where the same can bewiped away and thereby leave a hard wax deposit on the skin.

2. A lipstick composition consisting essentially of about 14.1% to 26.1%by weight of a wax selected from the group consisting of carnauba,ozokerite, paraffin, candelilla, ceresin, spermaceti and mixturesthereof, about 7.2% to 9.4% of a dye to provide the composition withcolor and pigment, about 8.1% to 16.7% of a hydrophilic dye solventcharacterized by being a liquid below 35 C. and selected from the groupconsisting of glycerols and glycols, about 4.8% to 5.8% of lanolin,about 0.5% to 2.3% of vitamin F, and 47.8% to 70.6% by weight of a thinliquid carrier immiscible with both said wax and said dye solvent andselected from the group consisting of oleyl alcohol and propylene glycolmonolaurate and characterized by having sufficient fluidity tofacilitate application of the lipstick to the skin 1 and to bleed out ofthe wax base phase after application to the skin Where the same can bewiped away and thereby leave a hard wax deposit on the sltin.

* 3. In combination with a two phase lipstick composition having acrystalline wax phase and a water soluble 5 hydrophilic dye solventphase characterized by being a liquid below 35 C. and selected from thegroup consisting of glycols and glycerols, a third separate phasecomprising a thin oily material immiscible with both the wax phase andsaid dyesolvent phase and being present in an amount of 47.8% to 70.6%by weight of the three phase composition, said oily material beingselected from the group consisting of oleyl alcohol and propylene glycolmonolaurate, and characterized by having sufiicient fluidity tofacilitate application of lipstick to the skin and to bleed out of thewax phase after application to the skin where the same can be wiped awayand thereby leave a hard wax deposit on the skin.

4. In combination with a two phase lipstick composition having acrystalline Wax phase selected from the group consisting of carnauba,ozokerite, parafiimcandelilla, ceresin, spermaceti and mixtures thereofand having a water soluble hydrophilic dye solvent phase characterizedby being a liquid below 35 C. and selected from the group consisting ofglycols and glycerols, a third separate phase comprising a thin oilymaterial immiscible with both the wax phase and said dye solvent phaseand being presentin an amount of 47.8% to 70.6% by weight of the threephase composition, said oily material being selected from the groupconsisting of oleyl alcohol and propylene glycol monolaurate.

i 5. In combination with a two phase lipstick composition having acrystalline wax phase and a water soluble hydrophilic dye solvent phasecharacterized by being a liquid below 35 C., and selected from the groupconsisting of glycols and glycerols, a third separate phase comprisingathin oily material immiscible with both the wax phase and said dyesolvent phase and being present in an amount of 47.8% to 70.6% by weightof the three phase composition, said oily material being selected fromthe group consisting of oleyl alcohol and propylene glycol monolaurate.

References Cited in the filc of this patent Hilfer: Drug and Cos. Ind,vol. 65, November 1949, pp. 518-519.

Incl. Chemist, August 1941, p. 205.

Thomssen: Mod. Cos., 3rd ed., 1947, pp. 297 and 307.

Am. Perfumer and Ess. Oil Rev., October 1952, p. 259.

Harry: Modern Cosmeticology, 3rd. ed., 1947, pp. 90-92.

1. A LIPSTICK COMPOSITION, CONSISTING ESSENTIALLY OF ABOUT 14.1% TO26.1% BY WEIGHT OF A WAX SELECTED FROM THE GROUP CONSISTING OF CARNAUBA,OZOKERITE, PARAFFIN, CANDELILLA, CERESIN, SPERMACETI, AND MIXTURESTHEREOF, ABOUT 7.2% TO 9.4% OF DYE TO PROVIDE THE COMPOSITION WITH COLORAND PIGMENT, ABOUT 8.1% TO 16.7% OF A HYDROPHILIC DYE SOLVENTCHARACTERIZED BY BEING A LIQUID BELOW 35$ C. AND SELECTED FROM THE GROUPCONSISTING OF GLYCEROLS AND GLYCOLS, SAID DYE SOLVENT BEING PRESENT IN AQUANTITY LESS THAN REQUIRED FOR SOLUTION OF SAID DYE, AND 47.8% TO 70.6%BY WEIGHT OF THIN LIQUID CARRIEER IMMISCIBLE WITH BOTH SAID WAX AND SAIDDYE SOLVENT AND SELECTED FROM THE GROUP CONSISTING OF OLEYL ALCOHOL ANDPROPYLENE GLYCOL MONOLAURATE AND CHARACTERIZED BY HAVING SUFFICIENTFLUIDITY TO FACILITATE APPLICATION OF THE LIPSTICK TO THE SKIN AND TOBLEED OUT OF THE WAX BASE PHASE AFTER APPLICATION TO THE SKIN WHERE THESAME CAN BE WIPED AWAY AND THEREBY LEAVE A HARD WAX DEPOSIT ON THE SKIN.